CDOCS a SPEAR Company

Vita YZ HT zirconia liquids


TZI C A2


On 2/16/2017 at 12:50 pm, Gregory Mark said...

Igor Denisov

Gregory,  That is outstanding.  Do you have the infiltration photos on this case.  I would like to see what the A2 looked like prior to staining.   I am amazed on how he was able to get the value where he did.   Thanks for showing how it can be done. 


On 2/16/2017 at 1:33 pm, Michael Mingle said...
On 2/16/2017 at 12:50 pm, Gregory Mark said...

Igor Denisov

Gregory,  That is outstanding.  Do you have the infiltration photos on this case.  I would like to see what the A2 looked like prior to staining.   I am amazed on how he was able to get the value where he did.   Thanks for showing how it can be done. 

Michael, this is not my case. This is my partner " CEREC in Russian." He is a genius one!!!!!! Gregory


It's very difficult to make TZI C natural.  That bridge you posted looks great on the black background... I can do that too.  However, in the mouth is what matters.  I would like to see that picture.  It's tough not to be opaque.  The work is fantastic though.

The anterior case is not zirconia though... correct?  If it is TZI C, I am super impressed.  I ask because the mill preview is not milled with carbides...  maybe you wet milled with 20 diamond burs. 

Nice job

 


Michael Mingle , I didn't photo with infiltration. Sorry.


He also has a full rehab case where he is matching e.max and zirconia. If I get a chance I will post them. Gregory


Mike. It's really TZI C. You are right, this crowns milled by diamond 20th burs


Here is a case.


I made bridge 12-15 from TZI C. Other crowns I made from e.max LT


I agree TZI C is very difficult make transparent and natural


Mike, can you post the photo of the water color pens you've been using for the infiltration liquid? Also, do you have a comprehensive list of the materials you've been using for your latest technique? Thanks.


I set up some of the Vita HT coloring liquids in small containers  last week and they seem to dry out.

Is there a way to store the liquids in small amounts to prevent evaporating?

Can you store larger quantities of the colors in the Zig Detailer paintbrush tubes?

Ray


On 2/21/2017 at 7:18 pm, Ray Kessler said...

I set up some of the Vita HT coloring liquids in small containers  last week and they seem to dry out.

Is there a way to store the liquids in small amounts to prevent evaporating?

Can you store larger quantities of the colors in the Zig Detailer paintbrush tubes?

Ray

Hi Ray's :)

I use the Zig Detailer only for the occlusal A chroma.  It does not dry out.  I like the fine tip for controlling it in the fissure.  I tend to use brushes for the rest of it.  I personally just dip the brush right into the vita container so I don't waste any.   There are a couple brushes that were included in the Vita kit, but now i'm currently using zirconia stain brushes from MPF.  I'm not sure if they are available or not yet as I received them as a gift. 


Mike,

You talk about using D2 to tone down the value and B2 to tone up, if needed.  How are you determining which you need since you are taking the zirconia straight from the mill to the Speedfire ?  In other words, how do you determine the extent of shading when you can't try in the zirconia restoration until after it has been infiltrated and sintered?

Thanks


On 9/26/2017 at 7:25 pm, Paul Kruth said...

Mike,

You talk about using D2 to tone down the value and B2 to tone up, if needed.  How are you determining which you need since you are taking the zirconia straight from the mill to the Speedfire ?  In other words, how do you determine the extent of shading when you can't try in the zirconia restoration until after it has been infiltrated and sintered?

Thanks

Hi Paul-

It's mainly just experience to be honest.  After I had done a ton, I know what it looks like.  Plus, I milled out a bunch of them awhile ago and glued them to Vita Shade tabs... so I have an idea.  In the end, it's just trying to get them to look as best as possible.  The material itself has esthetic limitations.  I would say that the majority of what I do is D3 block with blue, A chroma, and A2


Thanks, Mike for the quick response. New CEREC user, so all of this information from the "experts" is great.


Tom:

Thanks for the tip. I ordered my kit from Panadent.co.uk .  Even with the shipping from 'across the pond' it saved me around $400.

Question for you all now:

Doing #3 Zirconia on an A2 Shade patient.  My first attempt was with an A2 Sirona Block.  I had just gotten the Vita Kit and was so excited. I added 2-3 layers of A2 to the entire crown, some blue to the cusp, grey to the grooves, and some chroma A to the gingival 3rd.   After firing it was closer to an A4.  The patient was not impressed!  So we sent him home with that as his temp.  

Then I tried again, this time with an A1 Sirona block, I only added a light layer of A2 YZ HT to the crown, and then some blue and grey.  This time I'm too light!  I only have e.max and celtra duo stains.  Is there a way to darken this crown?  Or do I need to start over.  

If I do need to start over, here's the fun part, the lightest blocks I now have are C2.  What would you suggest? 

Also, maybe no the right place, but I'm a new user (done about 6 seat so far), can some one offer insight on what their 'base inventory' is?  

Best,

Adam 


Adam
If you are dealing with zirconia that is already precolored, do not cover entire thing... just the effects (blue, cervical, and light occlusal in the grooves). The only time you cover all is if you are dealing with zirconia that is not precolored like Vita YZ HT


Mike, I’m confused as to what shade blocks do you use. So if the tooth is A2 shade, do you use A2 or always use D3. How about if pt’s tooth is C3 or other shades!

can you also comment on how to treat the sintered crown and what cement you use?

thanks


I use a lot of D3 really... i will use other shades, but i always seem to come back to that.
To cement i sandblast and just use RMGI. That is it!


Anything new on this front? I feel like we made some real advances, but no one is talking about anything new. I just ordered some brown fissure infiltration, and plan to start playing with that. Also going to start playing with the ivoclar blocks. I know the feeling was that they where not much different, but I see a difference with the 9 hour cycle vs. the speedfire so it's worth playing around with imo.


Waiting on Katana...:)


The Katana blocks are going to be pretty sweet no doubt.


A little late to this game, but just getting started.  The only pens I've seen are the ones off Amazon that Mike uses in some of the videos.  Do you guys get those and fill them with the stain liquid?  Does it keep well enough in those?  I have brushes, but the idea of keeping a pen around that's ready without dipping or drawing into a well sounds pretty nice.  


On 12/13/2017 at 11:47 am, Josh Fowler said...

A little late to this game, but just getting started.  The only pens I've seen are the ones off Amazon that Mike uses in some of the videos.  Do you guys get those and fill them with the stain liquid?  Does it keep well enough in those?  I have brushes, but the idea of keeping a pen around that's ready without dipping or drawing into a well sounds pretty nice.  

I dont find the water color pens to be very easy to use or control in regards to stain amounts. I have tried a bunch and now use a microbrush to apply my base shade, then just dip a brush into the color of my choice and apply. Looks like Bill Marais does the same....see the video posted by Gregory Mark. Good Luck!


On 12/13/2017 at 11:47 am, Josh Fowler said...

A little late to this game, but just getting started.  The only pens I've seen are the ones off Amazon that Mike uses in some of the videos.  Do you guys get those and fill them with the stain liquid?  Does it keep well enough in those?  I have brushes, but the idea of keeping a pen around that's ready without dipping or drawing into a well sounds pretty nice.  

I like those zig brushes.  I have a bunch loaded up, just grab the ones I want and go at it.  Definitely the quickest way to get the job done in my hands.